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THE ONLY THING SMALL ….

The only thing small about the miniature pinscher is its size. The typical min pin stands between 10 to 12.5 inches. It is a square-proportioned dog with a compact, sturdy body. The Canadian Kennel Club (CKC) breed standard describes the miniature pinscher as "naturally well groomed, proud, vigorous and alert. Characteristic traits are his hackney-like action, fearless animation, complete self-possession, and his spirited presence."

Despite its classification in the CKC's toy group, the miniature pinscher's aggressive, brash attitude has earned it a reputation as an excellent guard dog. The min pin loves to bark, particularly at people and other animals it does not  know. Although they have little use for strangers, miniature pinschers attach themselves with a vengeance to their owners. The miniature pinscher doesn't back down to anyone or anything. This occasionally leads to problems with children, who can be deceived by the dog's small size into innocently believing the min pin can handle the same rough play children dole out to playthings of similar size. Parents be forewarned: few miniature pinschers tolerate this sort of rough handling. Children must be taught proper respect and care for the dog. On the other hand, the min pin is one of the few toy breeds that can hold its own with larger dogs, because of their cocky, bold attitude. This is particularly true if your min pin is raised with other animals and taught to be respectful.

Socialization of your min pin should start when the puppy is about 21 days old, with its training continuing for several months. Because these are athletic and fearless dogs, containing them can be a challenge. Many owners learn this lesson early, when trying to housebreak their min pins. Males especially can be prone to leg-lifting problems but usually are worse if two males are in the same household or females come into season. 

The more exercise your miniature pinscher receives, the happier it will be. The dog requires several play sessions every day; however, because of its small size these exercise needs can be met indoors or out. In contrast to the dog's physical and mental needs, the min pin's grooming needs are minimal. The short, flat coat is virtually carefree, requiring only weekly brushing to remove dead hair. A mitt made of velvet type material or even one with horse hair are excellent for this. A min pin that receives regular brushing will seldom need a bath - shampooing washes away the natural oils that moisturize the coat and skin, so bathe only when necessary.

This is generally a healthy breed, with a typical lifespan of 12 to 15 years. Patella luxation, in which the kneecap covering the joint in the rear of the leg slips to one side and causes limping, is occasionally seen in min pins as it is  a ‘toy breed’ problem. Diabetes, progressive retinal atrophy and legg-perthes disease (affecting the hip and requiring surgery to lead a normal life), can also affect members of this breed.

Nail Clipping

 

First, depending on the individual dog , of course, you must de-sensitize the feet. This is done by resting your hand on the dog’s feet, which is more easily done while he is asleep. If he is awake, you can still have him lie beside you and just touch his paw, either by patting it or by holding it. Don’t let him freak out, just get him to relax enough so that you can stroke the toes and tap the nail beds with your finger, followed eventually by you pressing down on the toe so that you are extending the nail outward from the toe. As if in the position to file it!

While watching TV. and with the dog fully relaxed beside you on the sofa, have the free hand hold the paw, and tap away at the nail. In your other hand, have the (scissor type) nail clipper ready to snip off just the curved tip of the nail. If and when the dog awakens or jumps up, pretend that you have no idea what upset him and continue watching TV. By seeing that you are not excited, he should settle down fairly quickly. Wait awhile before trying again. Some nights(or days) you may only get to do one nail, while other nights, two can be clipped. Go slow, and take it one stage at a time.

If the dog wakes up and knows what is happening but doesn’t fight you, then praise him and give him a cookie the whole time telling him what a good dog he is. As time goes on, you should be able to handle the whole paw while he is awake by gently praise and a good ear rub. Sooner then you think, you should be able to do two paws, then three and eventually all four paws at the same time. Some dogs may accept this procedure within a day or a week, while others may prove to be more stubborn and make it last a month or more. But what the heck – you have how many years to improve on the situation?

Once you have the nails down to where you want them with the clippers, it is time to graduate to a Dremel – electric grinder with a sandpaper disc/drum on the end for filing – and again start with one toe at a time. Never spend more than three or four seconds on each toe as longer will cause the nail to heat up and may cause pain to the dog. You can always come back to the first toe when you have finished the last foot. To keep feet and nails neat however, you must do this procedure every 4 days in order to keep the ‘quick’ back and prevent bleeding from clipping very long nails short!

In the event that there is some bleeding, there is a clotting powder available – kwik-stop, kwik-dry/ kwik-sorb/ cornstarch -  they all do the same thing – stop the bleeding.

Ideally, all dogs should be started on nail clipping as puppies. I find that for the first few weeks, the nails need to be done bi-weekly and in so doing, a good breeder will have the dog pretty well trained by the time he leaves home as long as he was not hurt or frightened by the whole process…

 

 

YOU AND YOUR NEW PUPPY

By Lorraine Lyons

 

Now that you have decided you just love the Miniature Pinscher, and absolutely must have a puppy… here’s the down side!

 

Raising a Min Pin may be like no other puppy you have ever raised.

They are tiny… and they get into places you may never have dreamed possible. And, they may not be able to get out again. Puppy  proof your house before you bring him home. Better yet, only allow him ONE room to venture in until trust worthy in housebreaking  which should be at about six months of age.

 

They are tiny… check your fence carefully. Once they squeeze through or under the fence and out into the great big interesting world, you’ll have to chase all over the neighborhood to catch him. They can run like the devil and have absolutely no traffic sense.

 

They are tiny… when they get into tiny places, they can chew on things you never thought possible. If your fridge has a butter keeper in the door, there is also an electric cord at the base of the door…and because the door has to swing, this bit of cord has to have room to move. A Min Pin can find it, and will chew it. He will also grab hold of and either try to chew or pull any other electric cord he can find such as computer cords, phone cords and lamp cords. If he can reach your drapes, he’ll swing from them along with the family cat. (* I once knew of a friend who came home to her dead beagle with his mouth still clutching a phone cord)

 

They are tiny… and they don’t have very much hair, so they get cold easily. When they are very young, they haven’t yet learned how to wiggle under blankets to keep warm. They may curl up on top, and eventually poop on them. (They also like to pee on scatter rugs). Again, by six months of age they will learn to go under whatever is made available to them – a throw on a sofa, blanket in the dog bed, towels in the laundry basket etc…

 

They are tiny… but even so, they poop enough for a big dog. And one of the really unpleasant (to some people) habits of the Min Pin… is that they tend to continue to walk around as they do their business. So you don’t always get a nice little pile in one place. It could be scattered along for a foot or more…Watch your pup closely each time he goes and remind him to ‘stay’ or ‘go pee’. They will soon get the message.

 

Puppies are fairly smart, but not brilliant enough to know the difference between an old slipper and your hundred dollar shoes. Give him some nylon bones (always with supervision of course) as it is possible to choke on some of the bigger chunks that they are dumb enough to try and swallow.  Min Pins shed very little, have very little doggie odor and are not mean tempered. They have excellent hearing, which makes them great watch dogs – not guard dogs.

 

They get lonesome… Maybe you know you are coming back right away, but the puppy hasn’t figured that out yet. They may chew on anything and everything to console them. If the puppy must be left alone for long periods, make sue it is in a confined area (laundry rooms must have a window) where he can’t damage anything, including himself. Eventually your pup will get accustomed to your routine, and if he is sure you love him as much as he loves you… he will figure you are worth waiting for.  A small (2’X2’ up to 4’X4’) pen can be purchased from pet supply stores from $70.  To $200. One of the best investments you could make in the pup’s lifetime. It can keep him from getting underfoot when you are busy, or protected when he has to be left alone, and is great for housebreaking too.

 

They get lonesome… so your pup might not want to sleep in that nice little wicker basket that you bought him, (he’ll chew it anyway). Buy him a proper dog crate just large enough for him to stand in and turn around in when he is adult size – a Vari-kennel 100 will do the trick. It isn’t cruelty to the pup; it is the security of his own little doggie den. The crate can be put beside your bed at night and the sound of your breathing is reassurance enough to allow him to sleep also. When he has to go potty, he won’t want to do it in his bed, so he will howl to be let out. If you take him outside to do his business at this point, half of the housebreaking chores will be started in spite of yourself. Most doggie accidents are the result of inattentive owners, not bad puppies. Don’t whack him with a rolled up newspaper either, he might grow up to bite the paperboy. Instead of punishing him for mistakes, praise him when he gets it right.

 

CARING  FOR YOUR MIN PIN

              Min Pins are considered a low maintenance dog in the grooming area.  Despite the short coats, all dogs need a degree of grooming, both for the sake of a nice appearance and to maintain the coat and skin in a healthy condition.  On a daily basis your min pins eyes and ears need to be checked for dirt and debris.  Using a warm damp cotton ball or a soft washcloth and gently go around the eyes removing any matter or dirt that has accumulated.  The inside of the earflap needs to be wiped clean using a gentle touch.  Look for any unusual build up of dirt, debris, or an odor within the ear for this could be a sign that you need to contact your vet.  At no time should you clean within the ear canal, clean only the portions of the ears that are clearly visible. Ideally, brushing with a soft bristle brush twice a week for half an hour each time is all that is required to take/keep the dead hair off your Min Pin.
             Caring for your min pins feet must start at a very young age.  As a young puppy with the litter, your breeder began teaching your puppy to feel comfortable having his feet handled.  This must continue on a regular basis for nail trimming to go smoothly.  Handling your pup's feet and massaging the nails on a daily basis greatly reduces the amount of stress on your min pin when he is in need of a nail trimming.
              Nails should be inspected regularly, and if overgrown must be clipped or filed back.  Nails allowed to overgrow can cause lameness and deformities in the feet.  Hold the foot over a light so the quick or the outer limit of the blood vessel, which runs through the nail can be seen.  Using a nail clipper specifically made for animals, clip only the overhanging portion of the nail being careful not to cut into the blood vessel.  When clipping a min pin with black nails the quick cannot be seen, one must be careful to only remove small portions of the nail until the dried brittle part of the nail is removed.  For a perfect manicure and a finishing touch, file the nail so that it is smooth to the touch, removing any rough edges that can be caught on furniture or carpeting. Trim nails weekly, yes, weekly until at least 6 months of age, then every 3 weeks after that.
            A Min Pin does not require frequent bathing unless of course a wild roll in some stinky stuff has taken place or needs veterinarian prescribed bathing on regular intervals.  Before placing your min pin into a tub or sink gently, plug the ears with absorbent cotton balls being very careful not to injure the ear by inserting too deeply.  Place the min pin into the bath and wet the coat thoroughly using warm water.  Using a mild soap or gentle shampoo, start from the head and work the lather to the back then down the legs.  Be very careful not to get the soap in the eyes.  After working down the legs gently get the belly and chest area.  Rinse well with clear water, using a sprayer if you have one.  Once this is done wrap your min pin in a dry towel and vigorously rub him down for several minutes,  often times this is all that is necessary.  Keep your min pin warm and don't allow outside for at least an hour.  You can freshen up your min pin with a rub down using a Baby-wipe for those days between bathing.
             Our pup's tail was docked when he was only a couple of days old. Very few owners have the choice to allow a tail to remain natural.  Cropping the ears however is something you will need to think about, discuss with your breeder and ask about vet references for this procedure.  Having a pet Min Pins ears cropped is totally optional and most pet owners are opting to leave the ears natural.  There basically are no health benefits to cropping the ears; today it is totally a cosmetic choice in the pet home.  Ear cropping is done primarily now only on those min pins that is entering CKC/AKC conformation competition.  Canada & United States are of the few areas in the world that has not banned such practice.  A min pin entering conformation competition can compete with natural ears, and any min pin entering any other type of competition will not be faulted for having un-cropped ears.
               The cropping procedure is done as a surgery in which your pup will be put under anesthesia.  Portions of the ear are cut away, the edges are stitched and both ears are put into what are called racks until they have trained or set to stand on their own.  This can be a long process in which those not experienced with ear taping and training may find it is something they would rather not get involved in.  You should only use a vet for this procedure that is familiar not only with ear cropping but specifically experienced with Miniature Pinschers, preferably a vet recommended by your breeder.  Many ask if there is any pain involved with ear cropping.  The edges of the ears can be quite sore and tender for a few to several days after the surgery.
The aftercare you provide for you min pin's ears will determine if the cropping will be the success you hoped for.  Your vet and breeder will discuss the best aftercare for the ears with you.  The most important thing to remember, it's your choice.  If you prefer a cropped look, it is your duty and responsibility to ensure your pup's health and comfort during the process. It does take work and dedication during the healing and training process, so much so that most breeders will not allow a puppy to leave until the ears are up and healed. This is not something any owner can walk into without carefully weighing all the facts.  If you like that natural look or feel that cropping is not something you wish to consider then that is fine also.

 

Registration Papers For Your Min Pin!

One advantage of buying a purebred Min Pin is that you can see what the mature animal is like. Within certain limits, the size and temperament is predictable and therefore you can select accordingly - one that suits your purpose and your lifestyle. Different breeds have different requirements for feeding, exercise, grooming and affection. The Miniature Pinscher, being a 'toy breed' and like any other dog - demands the same attention.

To be classed as a Purebred, your dog must be eligible for registration with the Canadian Kennel Club (CKC). Your best source of a sound, healthy Miniature Pinscher is the Breeder, preferably one who is also a CKC member and also a member of the local club or clubs, during the time they are breeding. Deal with a RECOMMENDED breeder who is concerned about the present and future development of his/her canine companions. Be prepared to answer a lot of questions from the breeder, but also have a few ready yourself.

Seeing as many relatives of your puppy as are available to be seen will give you a clearer picture of the development of your own pup. Ask to view the mother and father of the pup but know that sometimes the mother is shipped away for the breeding process and there may only be a photo of the dad to see. If the Breeder does not wish to show the mother due to her 'bedraggled'  shape after the birth of her pups, request  a return visit and/or a look at a photo of her before the delivery.

All the Breeders must individually identify each puppy before it leaves the kennel by means of a tattoo number or a microchip implant. Unless this is done BEFORE THE PUP LEAVES THE BREEDER'S HOME, the dog cannot be registered with the CKC.

If the dog was born in Canada, ask to see the litter certificate issued by the CKC. The certificate wll indicate the litter registration number, breed, date of birth of the pups, registered names and CKC numbers of the sire and dam, number of males and female pups born in that litter, and the name and address of the person who owns the litter at birth. . You should take note of the litter registration number and the name and address of the 'owner at birth' as it is this person who is responsible for identifying the dog before you purchase it and individually registering the dog with the CKC. The good breeders would never hand over the individual registration papers and tell you to send it in to CKC, nor should they 'charge more' for registration papers when selling a puppy.

Whether or not it is purebred your pet should be healthy, clean, bright-eyed and show definite friendliness. The cleanliness of the breeder's kennel area or facilities are generally a good indication of the puppy's health prospects. The breeder should inform the buyer of health problems within the breed and should guarantee the dog's current health. Your puppy should have paid a recent visit to a veterinarian. It should have its inoculations up to date, have been wormed if necessary, and any other requirements met (such as tail docking, dew claws removed, etc.) A reputable breeder will welcome your independent veterinarian examination within 48 hours and if any health related problems are brought to his/her attention, will refund your money or make adjustments as required. Example: if your new pup develops canine distemper within 7 days of purchase  chances are he had it when you got him! Note: even vaccinated pups can come down with distemper, maybe not as bad as an unvaccinated puppy, but still have symptoms.

Beware of the breeders who allow a puppy to leave the kennel too early - 47 days is about the earliest date with 49 (or 7 weeks old) being considered optimum by many. An older puppy or even an adult will be more mature, will likely be house-trained and generally very adaptable.
Be sure to obtain a written receipt, health record, feeding instructions, grooming and general care information when you acquire your puppy. If your puppy is stated as being a purebred you are legally entitled to a CKC Registration Certificate at no extra cost. The sale of purebred dogs is governed by the Federal Animal Pedigree Act.

If such certificate of registration is not provided by the seller within six months of the date of sale, the buyer can lay an Information Charge against the seller for violation of the Animal Pedigree Act. The penalty for violation of the Act is a fine, or imprisonment. Before purchasing your dog, you should establish certain criteria, which are prerequisite to a purebred dog's eligibility for CKC registration. If such criteria are not confirmed by the seller, you should not buy the dog.

A RELIABLE BREEDER can be immeasurable help both when purchasing your dog and in advising in the future. Choose your breeder carefully.

Finally, remember that once you have bought a pet, its development is your responsibility. It must be provided with the proper care, training and facilities to ensure that it remains mentally and physically healthy and under control at all times.

Be sure that your new friend becomes a PET and NOT A PEST.

 

 

Shipping a puppy!

 

Shipping is available weather permitting. I prefer you pick your puppy up, so that we can meet and you can view mom, dad, and relatives of your pup. If this is not possible your puppy can be shipped. The cost of shipping is $250. This includes the vet examination, health certificate as required by the airlines, airline approved crate, and your pups boarding fare. All puppies are insured, at my cost before boarding the airplane. Puppies are stressed by the flight, be aware that if you can pick your puppy up the bonding will begin then. By the time you get home you will have a happy puppy that has already adopted you as its owner.

Shipping can be done from Ottawa International Airport or Montreal's Airport. I have successfully shipped many puppies over the years from Halifax NS to Northern BC.

 

Contact me for any questions.

 

 


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